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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Xi'an

Liu Xin Beef and Mutton Paomo (Sajinqiao)

刘信牛羊肉泡馍小炒(回民街店)

A thirty-odd-year-old halal shop at the Sajinqiao end of the Muslim Quarter, on the street where Xi'an locals actually eat. It does paomo, but what it is really known for is xiaochao - the stir-fried version, where the torn bread is tossed in a wok with beef, chilli and a slug of vinegar instead of being drowned in broth. Cheaper, sharper and more interesting than the hushed old houses nearer the Bell Tower.

¥25–40 per person≈ US$3.72Lianhu, Sajinqiao no. 129, north-west of the Drum Tower and outside the main tourist lane.

Why come here

A place worth making time for

No verifiable guide award. Known among Xi'an locals for its stir-fried paomo (小炒泡馍) rather than the soup version, on the Sajinqiao local-eating street.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Stir-fried paomo (小炒泡馍)
  • Premium beef paomo (优质牛肉泡馍)
  • Cold-dressed beef tripe (凉拌牛肚)
  • Flash-fried lamb (爆炒羊肉)

What it actually tastes like

The stir-fried version is aggressively sour and hot - black vinegar and chilli are the whole flavour. Offal is on the menu as a cold starter. Beef and mutton fat throughout; whole spices and bones are not picked out for you.

Allergens in this kitchen

gluten/wheatsoy

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.