Across ChinaThe eight caves on the public rotation are chosen for durability and crowd flow, not for quality.
BeijingMutianyu and Badaling are rebuilt and busy.
BeijingYou get an unrestored section of the Great Wall effectively to yourself at sunrise, on foot from your own door, with no ticket gate and no coaches.
BeijingThe complex is huge, almost everything of quality sits in side halls that a self-guided visitor walks past, and the galleries that need extra tickets are where the objects are.
LhasaThe building is the reason people come to Lhasa, and the hour inside is the same hour for everyone.
ChongqingIt is the newest hull on the river, so the fittings, insulation and balcony glazing are current rather than refurbished, and Victoria's ships are run for an English-speaking market with American-style service and commentary.
Across ChinaThe route is the Tea Horse Road, and the point of lodge-to-lodge is that you are driving one direction through descending and rising valleys instead of doing day trips.
LhasaThe rules force everyone into an agency, so the only question is which agency and whether you share a vehicle.
ShanghaiA counter at this level is the closest thing in China to buying the kitchen's attention: the cooking happens in front of you and the chefs talk you through it.
ChengduYou learn on the school's own gas, which is the actual lesson.
Across ChinaRock tea is the one Chinese tea where the roast is as important as the leaf, and the roasting is done over weeks in low charcoal heat.
Across ChinaJingdezhen is still a working industry rather than a heritage display, and the material chain is all there: the kaolin pits at Gaoling National Mining Park, the wharf the clay came down, the kiln sites, the studios.
SuzhouThis is the one Chinese craft where the skill is visible at the scale of a hair, and it only makes sense in person.
BeijingThe building is the point.
Across ChinaThis is the best-value top-tier transport in China and the least oversold.
Across ChinaOn the few legs where it works, a jet removes a long drive or a bad connection between provincial airports that have one flight a day.
ZhangjiajieZhangjiajie is a bus-and-cableway park: you spend the day moving between viewpoints on shared transport.
Across ChinaThe main valley is a boardwalk with 41,000 other people on it.
BeijingAn unrestored Ming wall lit at night, with the valley dark below and the water town glowing behind you, is a sight no daytime section offers, and the night cap is far lower than the daytime crowd.
Inner MongoliaThe grassland is worth one night, not three, and the whole value is whether you are at a working camp or a floor show.
HangzhouThe address is the product.
BeijingA Chinese banquet is designed to be eaten at a round table in a closed room, with dishes arriving to be shared and the service pacing the meal.
Across ChinaMost of the good things in this file are an hour or three outside a city and start before the public does.