Jiuzhaigou: the Zharu Valley trek behind the main park
The main valley is a boardwalk with 41,000 other people on it. Zharu is the same landscape with five people, and it is the only way to be inside Jiuzhaigou away from the roads, since sleeping in the park proper is not allowed for anyone.
Picture your day
The main valley is a capped, bussed day visit: tickets online only under your exact passport details, with the gate scanning the physical passport, 190 CNY entrance plus a 90 CNY sightseeing bus in peak season and 80 plus 80 off-season, and a reported daily ceiling of 41,000 that the area actually hit for 24 consecutive days between 28 July and 20 August 2025. Zharu is the alternative: a side valley opened to visitors in 2009, walked in small groups with a local guide on one-, two- or three-day treks around the sacred peak of Zha Yi Zha Ga, over 4,500 m and a Bon pilgrimage site. You sleep in simple wooden shacks, cross streams and barely cleared trails marked with prayer flags, and eat in villages.
The access, explained
Genuinely different access, and the mechanism is the guide requirement rather than money: the trek is not on the standard ticket and is only walked with a licensed local guide in a small group. Beyond that the detail is murky. One 2026 cost table lists a Zharu Valley eco-hike permit at 98 CNY in both seasons, citing Aba Tourism, a 2010 account says special permission and local guides are needed, and another guide reported the Zharu temple side valley still closed as of 2022. The main-park figures also conflict: one guide gives caps of 41,000 in season and 23,000 from 16 November, another only the peak figure, booking windows are given as one day and as one to fifteen days, and a 14:00 entry cutoff appears in one source and not in the park's own material.
Planning the details
How to arrange it. Main-park tickets through the official WeChat mini-program; there is no walk-in counter. Zharu through an operator who can name the guide and confirm the trek is currently running, because it has been closed before. Allow real lead time in October.
When to go. Mid-October to early November for the colour, which is also when the park is fullest. For Zharu, June to early October; the high ground is snow-covered outside that and the trek needs decent fitness at close to 4,000 m.
Ask for written confirmation of the date, duration, guide language, transport, admission and cancellation terms. Any restricted access must be confirmed by the venue.
The setting, in pictures & film
Find footage of Jiuzhaigou: the Zharu Valley trek behind the main parkBrowse YouTube results for this property or experience. These are search results, not selected films. ↗Videos open on their publisher’s site. YouTube is unavailable in mainland China; watch before travelling.
Good to know
Verify before you commit, because almost nothing here is published officially in English and the agency numbers disagree with each other. Do not buy a Zharu trek as an add-on without written confirmation it is open on your dates. And be clear what the main valley is: a managed, bussed, paved day out, spectacular and not remotely wild.