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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

Your travel companion

A little know-how. A smoother trip.

From the first idea to your first bowl of noodles, find clear answers to the questions that come up along the way. Every guide includes its sources and the date it was checked.

01

Deciding to go

The big questions: entry requirements, timing and budget.

Deciding to go

Can you enter China without a visa? The 2026 rules, plainly

Around 80 nationalities can now enter mainland China with no visa. Here is who qualifies, for how long, what the dates mean, and the trap most people miss.

Deciding to go

240-hour visa-free transit in China, explained properly

Ten visa-free days in China on the way to somewhere else. The rules are specific and the eligible ports matter — here is how to actually qualify.

Deciding to go

What a China trip actually costs

China is cheaper than most people expect for food and transport, and more expensive than they expect for hotels in big cities. Here is where the money really goes.

Deciding to go

The worst times to visit China, and how to know next year's dates

Two weeks of the year are genuinely worth rearranging a trip around. The catch: next year's official holiday dates aren't published until late autumn.

Deciding to go

The other visa-free routes into China most people miss

Beyond the 30-day scheme and 240-hour transit there are five more ways in without a visa — including a whole province, a cruise rule and a Hong Kong day-trip route.

Deciding to go

China with limited mobility

China's metros, high-speed trains and newer scenic areas are often genuinely step-free, while its pavements, kerbs and historic sights frequently are not. An honest site-by-site and city-by-city account of what works, what needs booking, and what to leave off the list.

02

Before you fly

Sort the essentials now, so arrival feels easy.

Before you fly

How to use Alipay and WeChat Pay in China as a foreigner

China is nearly cashless and your credit card won't work in most places. Set up both wallets before you fly — here is exactly how, and what the fees are.

Before you fly

Do you need a VPN in China? Get an eSIM instead

A roaming eSIM gets you Google, WhatsApp and Instagram in China with no VPN, legally and reliably. It's the best twenty dollars you'll spend on the trip.

Before you fly

Why Chinese hotels turn foreigners away — and how to avoid it

Plenty of Chinese hotels cannot legally register a foreign guest, and you find out at check-in. Here's how to book around it.

Before you fly

Booking Chinese high-speed trains with a passport

China's rail network is the best way to move between cities. Booking it as a foreigner is easy once you know which channel to use.

Before you fly

What to pack for China (and what to leave behind)

China sells almost everything, cheaply. The packing list that matters is short, and it is mostly about the things you genuinely cannot buy or set up once you are there.

Before you fly

Landing in China: what actually happens, step by step

The arrival card is now online and free — and there are scam sites charging for it. Here is the whole sequence from plane door to kerb, plus the things you genuinely must not bring.

Before you fly

Cash and ATMs in China: how much to carry, and where to get it

China runs on QR codes, but the day your phone dies or Alipay's risk engine declines your card, cash is the whole plan. Here is how much, and which ATMs actually work.

Before you fly

Registering with the police in China

Every foreign visitor to China must have their address registered with the local police within 24 hours of arriving, and hotels do it for you but Airbnbs and friends' flats do not. Here is the law behind it, what to take to the station, what the fine is, and why it matters each time you change city.

03

On the ground

Practical help for the moments between the landmarks.

On the ground

How to eat well in China without speaking Chinese

Most restaurants now order by QR code, in Chinese, with no waiter. Here is how that actually works, how to find the good places, and how to make a dietary requirement understood.

On the ground

Is China safe for tourists? What the advisories actually say

Street crime is rare enough to be genuinely surprising. The risks every government actually warns about are different ones: arbitrary enforcement, exit bans, traffic, and a few things that are legal at home and not there.

On the ground

Chinese etiquette for travellers: what actually matters

Most etiquette advice about China is either outdated or irrelevant to a tourist. Here is the short list of things that genuinely change how your trip goes.

On the ground

Claiming China's departure tax refund as a tourist

Spend ¥200 in one shop in one day and you can claim VAT back on the way out. The rules got considerably more generous in 2025 and the paperwork mostly disappeared in 2026.

On the ground

Getting around a Chinese city without speaking Chinese

The metro takes a QR code from Alipay in every major city, and DiDi solves the problem of pronouncing an address. Both work with a foreign card.

On the ground

How to find the best food in China, and check it's still good

Any restaurant list goes stale within months. The durable skill is reading the Chinese apps and guides that locals actually use — here is how, without reading Chinese.

On the ground

If something goes wrong in China

The emergency numbers that actually work, and the three-stage process for a lost passport that catches travellers out because an embassy document on its own will not let you board a flight home. Also hospitals, upfront payment, pharmacies, and getting the police report your insurer will demand.

04

Where to go

Get to know the places that make the journey.

Where to go

Three days in Beijing, planned around the booking windows

A first-timer's Beijing, arranged so the things that sell out get booked in the right order and you never backtrack across the city.

Where to go

Three days in Shanghai for a first visit

Shanghai needs less advance booking than Beijing and rewards wandering more. Here is a route that shows you the three cities Shanghai actually is.

Where to go

Xi'an and Chengdu: five days, two very different cities

The classic second leg of a China trip. One city is Tang-dynasty history and the hardest museum booking in the country; the other is pandas, teahouses and the best food in China.

Where to go

Guilin and Yangshuo: the karst landscape, done properly

The scenery on the ¥20 note, and the choice that decides the trip: which boat you take down the Li River, and whether you base yourself in Guilin or Yangshuo.

Where to go

Visiting Tibet: the permit rules, which are unlike anywhere else in China

You cannot travel independently, you cannot apply for the permit yourself, and you cannot board the train without it. Here is how it actually works, and the timing that catches people out.

Where to go

Hangzhou and Suzhou: lake, gardens, and the easiest days in China

Two cities under an hour from Shanghai by train, both largely free to walk, and both with the fiddliest free-ticket bookings in the country.

Where to go

Yunnan: Dali, Lijiang and Shangri-La, in the right order

The most rewarding slow travel in China, and the one region where altitude order matters: go up gradually, and the mountains are a pleasure rather than a headache.

Where to go

Chongqing: the vertical city, and the Three Gorges cruise

A city built up a cliff where the metro runs through a tower block, and the usual upstream start of the Yangtze cruise. Most of the best of it is free.

Where to go

Harbin in winter, and why you must check the dates yourself

The ice festival is the reason to go north, and its dates are announced late and can end early. Last season it closed three weeks ahead of schedule when the sculptures melted.

Where to go

Shanxi: Pingyao's walled city and Datong's grottoes

The best-preserved walled city in China and a UNESCO cave complex, both a short train from Beijing — with two ticket rules that catch people out badly.

Where to go

Zhangjiajie: the Avatar mountains, and the reservation that traps people

Three separate parks, three separate tickets, and a four-day pass that does not actually guarantee you can get back in. Here is how to plan it so the mountain is the hard part, not the booking.

Where to go

Guangzhou and Shenzhen: the food trip with no queues

Two cities half an hour apart by train, 14 minutes from Hong Kong, holding the best eating in China and almost no foreign tourists. This guide covers how to split four days between them, what to eat, and why the theme parks and the tower are a waste of your time.

Where to go

Nanjing: six capitals, one wall, and a memorial you need to prepare for

An hour and a quarter from Shanghai sits a city that was China's capital under six dynasties, with the country's most complete city wall and one of its most difficult museums. This guide gives a three-day shape, says plainly what the Massacre Memorial contains, and explains how locals actually eat salted duck.

Where to go

Qingdao: German streets, Tsingtao draught, and buying your own dinner

A German colonial town grafted onto the Shandong coast, with a brewery from 1903 and a mountain that falls into the sea. This guide gives a three-day shape, explains the market-to-beer-house system locals eat by, and says why the beer festival and the famous pier are not worth your time.

Where to go

Xiamen and Gulangyu: book the ferry before you book the flight

Gulangyu ferry tickets have been real-name, capped and sold 15 days ahead since February 2026, which means your Xiamen dates are decided by a boat booking. This guide leads with that, then covers four days on the island city, the satay-noodle habit, the peanut-allergy problem and what to skip.

Where to go

Inner Mongolia: go between late June and early September, or not at all

The grassland is green for about ten weeks a year and outside them the trip has no point. This guide covers the season, why the grassland and the desert cannot be joined by train, a five-day shape from Hohhot, salty milk tea, and why vegetarians should think hard before coming.

Where to go

Xinjiang: distances, two clocks, and the permits that decide your route

Xinjiang is a sixth of China, runs on two clocks two hours apart, and needs a border permit for Tashkurgan and a licensed hotel everywhere. This guide covers the practical mechanics, a ten-day shape through Urumqi, Turpan and Kashgar, and why Uyghur food is the easiest in China for a foreign palate.

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