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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Xinjiang

Abula's Nan

阿布拉的馕

A long-established Urumqi nan bakery turning out golden tandoor-baked flatbread all day, and the simplest way to understand why nan rather than rice underpins eating in Xinjiang. Buy a couple of shapes to compare; the thick girde-style ones keep best for a train journey.

¥10–20≈ US$1.49Ranked No. 19 on Ctrip's Urumqi must-eat list104 Xibei Road, Shayibake District, Urumqi, near Lanxiu Garden.

Why come here

A place worth making time for

A recognised traditional nan-making old brand in Urumqi, ranked No. 19 on Ctrip's Urumqi must-visit food list at the time of checking; no graded award.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Sesame nan (芝麻馕)
  • Thick pit nan (窝窝馕)
  • Onion nan (皮牙子馕)
  • Sweet milk nan (奶子馕)

What it actually tastes like

Nothing challenging at all: salted bread, sesame, onion. This is the most immediately approachable food in China.

Allergens in this kitchen

gluten/wheatsesamedairyegg

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.