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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

Discover Guilin and Yangshuo

Yangshuo West Street

阳朔西街

Yangshuo's 1,400-year-old main lane, which became China's first backpacker street in the 1980s and is now a dense strip of bars, cafes, climbing shops and souvenir stalls under karst peaks. Loud, touristy, and still the practical hub for arranging everything else.

Free1-2 hours, plus an evening
Yangshuo West Street (阳朔西街), Guilin and Yangshuo
Photo: Imcall · CC BY-SA 3.0

The story

What makes this place special

West Street is the old main lane of Yangshuo town, a market street in the Guibei region under the Ming and Qing - claims that it is 1,400 years old are standard tourist-board copy rather than documented history. Its modern significance is different: from the 1980s it filled with foreign backpackers, who opened cafes, bars and restaurants along it, and it became known as China's first 'foreigners' street' and a place where locals came to practise English. That era has largely passed; the street is now mainstream Chinese domestic tourism, with bars, chain snack shops and souvenir stalls.

What you’ll discover

A pedestrianised stone-paved street a few hundred metres long running from the Li River bank inland, with low two- and three-storey shophouses, karst peaks visible at the end of it in both directions, and the whole length given over to bars, beer-fish restaurants, osmanthus-wine and dried-fruit shops, tailors and souvenir stands. The side lanes off it hold hostels, guesthouses and the quieter cafes. At night it is loud: live bands, bar touts and crowds.

A little local insight

Good to know before you go

  • Treat it as an evening, not a sight. By day it is a commercial street selling much the same handicrafts as every other restored old street in China, and an hour covers it; at night the bars open, the lighting comes on and it does what it is actually for.
  • The street is where you sleep and eat, not what you came to Yangshuo for. The reason to be in Yangshuo is the countryside - Yulong River, Xingping, the Ten-Mile Gallery, the climbs at Moon Hill and Laozhai. Base yourself near West Street and spend the daylight out of town.
  • Eat the beer fish, but not on West Street itself. Yangshuo beer fish (pijiu yu) is the genuine local dish; the versions one street back, or in Xingping, cost less and are generally better than the ones with photo menus and English touts on the main drag.
  • Prices here are tourist prices and the first number is not the number. Haggling is expected in the souvenir shops and not in the restaurants.
  • Avoid the May Day and National Day holidays entirely - room rates in Yangshuo roughly double and the street becomes impassable.

When to come

After dark, from about 8pm, when the bars and lights come on; it is the one time the street has a character of its own. Spring and autumn are the comfortable seasons in Yangshuo for the cycling and river trips the town exists to serve; summer is hot and wet, winter cool and quiet.

Getting around

Easy. Flat stone-paved pedestrian street with no steps and no traffic, short enough to cover in a few minutes, and a wheelchair can use its whole length. Surfaces are smooth-worn flagstone and can be slippery when wet, and the crush of people on a summer evening is the real obstacle rather than the terrain. Shop and restaurant doorways often have a lip or a single step.

Worth knowing before you go

Use it as a base, not a destination: guesthouses here rent scooters and bikes and arrange rafts, and the countryside you actually came for starts five minutes' ride away.

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