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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Harbin

Lao Chu Jia

老厨家

The family restaurant of the Zheng line, descended from Zheng Xingwen, who in 1907 was the official cook at Harbin's Daotai Fu customs office and invented guobaorou there as a sweet-sour dish palatable to the Russian diplomats his bosses had to entertain. The family reopened as a public restaurant in 1922 and took the Lao Chu Jia name around 1930; Zheng Shuguo is the fourth-generation holder of the recipes. It is the one place in Harbin where the sweet-and-sour pork comes with a traceable provenance rather than a legend.

roughly ¥70–100 per person≈ US$10Heilongjiang provincial intangible cultural heritage 2013Harbin; the family runs several branches and the flagship location has moved more than once, so confirm the branch before travelling

Why come here

A place worth making time for

Its cooking tradition, 老厨家·滨江官膳传统厨艺, was entered on Heilongjiang's fourth provincial list of intangible cultural heritage in 2013 — a government designation, not a restaurant award. No Michelin or Black Pearl presence in Harbin.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Guobaorou, the original 1907 version (锅包肉)
  • Daotai Fu official-banquet dishes (滨江官膳)
  • Dry-fried carp (干烧鲤鱼)
  • Pot-stewed pork with vinegar glaze (熏卤拼盘)

What it actually tastes like

The historic guobaorou is dressed in fruit vinegar and sugar with no ketchup, so it tastes sharper and less orange-red than the version served everywhere else in Dongbei. Diners who learned the modern tomato-sauce style often think the original is wrong.

Allergens in this kitchen

gluten/wheatsoyegg

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.

Get to know the menu

Local specialities to try here