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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Harbin

Portman

波特曼西餐厅

A Nangang District Russian restaurant that locals rate above the Central Avenue names for actual cooking rather than atmosphere, and the one most often picked for a proper night out rather than a sightseeing lunch. The room is dark, wood-panelled and candlelit, and it takes the Russian repertoire more seriously than the tourist strip does.

¥150–200 per person≈ US$22Nangang District; metro station not confirmed

Why come here

A place worth making time for

Ranked near the top of Ctrip's Harbin must-visit restaurant list (No. 2 at the time of checking, 4.8 user rating); not a Michelin or Black Pearl property.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Clay-pot braised beef (罐焖牛肉)
  • Fried bread with caviar-style garnish (鱼子酱面包)
  • Russian cabbage soup (罗宋汤)
  • Grilled lamb chops (烤羊排)

What it actually tastes like

Dill, sour cream and pickle run through most dishes. Nothing here is spicy, which can be a relief after a week of Chinese travel.

Allergens in this kitchen

dairygluten/wheateggfish

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.