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A taste of Suzhou

Songhelou

松鹤楼

Founded in 1757 and the address most associated with squirrel-shaped mandarin fish; the canonical Suzhou banquet restaurant.

¥150–250≈ US$22local institutionGusu, Guanqian Street in the old town
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Songhelou (松鹤楼), Suzhou
Photo: Gisling · CC BY-SA 4.0

Why come here

A place worth making time for

No Michelin distinction — Songhelou does not appear in the MICHELIN Guide's Suzhou selection. Known instead as the claimed origin of squirrel mandarin fish and a state-recognised 中华老字号 (Chinese time-honoured brand, 2006), trading since 1757

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Squirrel mandarin fish (松鼠鳜鱼, also written 松鼠桂鱼)
  • Braised pork belly, Suzhou style (樱桃肉)
  • Watermelon chicken in season (西瓜鸡)

What it actually tastes like

The squirrel fish is a sweet dish: the sauce is closer to a sweet-and-sour glaze than anything savoury, and it is the clearest demonstration of how much sugar Su cuisine uses. The fish is served whole with the head on and fine bones in the fanned flesh. It is a market-price item sized for sharing.

Allergens in this kitchen

fishshellfishsoygluten/wheatsesameegg

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.

Get to know the menu

Local specialities to try here

Squirrel-shaped mandarin fish 松鼠桂鱼Sweet first, then sour, over very crisp fried fish and soft flesh beneath