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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Xi'an

Fan Ji Lazhi Rou (Zhubashi branch)

樊记腊汁肉(竹笆市店)

A hole-in-the-wall pork shop trading since the 1920s on Zhubashi, a lane of bamboo-ware sellers a few minutes south of the Bell Tower. Pork belly is simmered for hours in a replenished master stock, then chopped and stuffed into a baked wheat bun. This is the Han Chinese version of roujiamo and the reference point locals use for everything else.

¥15–25 per person≈ US$2.23local institution (recognised Shaanxi heritage brand)Nanyuanmen, Zhubashi street no. 53. Ctrip's listing puts it about 575m, an eight-minute walk, from Guangjijie station exit C on Metro Line 6.

Why come here

A place worth making time for

Known as one of Xi'an's longest-running lazhi-rou pork bun shops, trading on Zhubashi for roughly a century; Ctrip's listing describes it as a China Time-Honoured Brand, which we have not confirmed from the government register.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Pork bun, fat-and-lean mix (腊汁肉夹馍·肥瘦)
  • Pork bun, lean only (纯瘦肉夹馍)
  • Cold wheat noodles (凉皮)
  • Mung bean noodle soup (粉丝汤)

What it actually tastes like

Very rich and very fatty - the fat-and-lean version is the one locals order and the one that drips. Deeply soy-and-spice braised rather than spicy. Not halal and not suitable for anyone avoiding pork.

Allergens in this kitchen

gluten/wheatsoy

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.

Get to know the menu

Local specialities to try here