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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Xi'an

Lao Li Jia Biangbiang Noodles (Bell Tower main shop)

老李家Biangbiang面(钟楼总店)

A small, permanently busy noodle shop in the lane south of the Dongdajie and Luomashi junction, doing the one thing Xi'an is most proud of: belt-wide hand-slapped wheat noodles. The name's famous 58-stroke character is said to be onomatopoeia for the dough hitting the bench. Order the combination bowl and you get several toppings on one sheet of noodle.

¥15–35 per person≈ US$2.23Beilin, 30m south of the Dongdajie and Luomashi junction. Ctrip's listing places it beside Bell Tower station exit K, served by Metro Lines 2 and 6.

Why come here

A place worth making time for

No verifiable guide award. Known for belt-width hand-pulled biangbiang noodles and the multi-topping combination bowls, in a central Bell Tower location.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Hand-slapped noodles with hot chilli oil (油泼扯面)
  • Four-in-one biangbiang noodles (四合一biangbiang面)
  • Three-in-one biangbiang noodles (三合一biangbiang面)
  • Noodles with cumin lamb topping (羊肉臊子面)

What it actually tastes like

An enormous quantity of wheat gluten - one bowl is often a whole meal for two moderate eaters. Hot oil poured over raw chilli flakes and garlic smells scorched by design. Sharp black vinegar is added at the table and locals use a lot of it. Cumin is heavy on the lamb topping.

Allergens in this kitchen

gluten/wheatsoyegg

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.