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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Guilin and Yangshuo

Agan Restaurant (Zhongshan Middle Road)

阿甘酒家(中山中路店)

A central, long-running Guilin restaurant doing the full northern-Guangxi repertoire rather than one dish, and the easiest place in the city proper to eat beer fish without going out to Yangshuo. Mid-priced, full at dinner, and the kind of place local families book for a birthday.

¥70–110 per person≈ US$10Ctrip Guilin list No. 3Zhongshan Middle Road (中山中路), central Guilin

Why come here

A place worth making time for

No. 3 on Ctrip's Guilin must-visit food list, rated 4.4

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Beer-braised osmanthus fish (啤酒桂花鱼)
  • Guilin rice-noodle side dishes (桂林米粉)
  • Taro braised pork (荔芋扣肉)

What it actually tastes like

River fish is cooked whole with bones, head and skin left on — the skin is deliberately unscaled in the beer-fish tradition, which puts some diners off. Expect tomato, pickled chilli and perilla rather than Sichuan numbness.

Allergens in this kitchen

fishsoygluten/wheatsesame

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.

Get to know the menu

Local specialities to try here