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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Hangzhou

Louwailou (Gushan Road)

楼外楼(孤山路店)

Founded in 1848 on the shore of West Lake beside Gushan, this is the single most famous restaurant in Hangzhou and the place every tour bus stops at. It has fed state banquets and visiting dignitaries for generations and its name is effectively shorthand for Hangzhou cuisine. Be clear-eyed: it is a large, busy, coach-tour institution with queues on public holidays and prices well above what the cooking alone would command, and you are paying partly for the lake view and the history.

¥145–250 per person≈ US$22local institutionXihu district, 30 Gushan Road on the north shore of West Lake, by Zhongshan Park

Why come here

A place worth making time for

Founded 1848 and a China Time-Honoured Brand with a long state-banquet history; Michelin's own site carried a Lou Wai Lou (Gushan Road) entry in the 2024 MICHELIN Guide Hangzhou, but we could not find it in the current 2026 Hangzhou selection and that restaurant page now returns 404, so we claim no current award. It is a landmark and a view, not a ranked kitchen.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • West Lake vinegar fish (西湖醋鱼)
  • Dongpo braised pork (东坡肉)
  • Beggar's chicken (叫化鸡)
  • Longjing tea shrimp (龙井虾仁)
  • Song sister's fish soup (宋嫂鱼羹)

What it actually tastes like

This is where most visitors meet West Lake vinegar fish, and the dish genuinely divides opinion. It is a whole freshwater fish, traditionally grass carp (草鱼), poached and then poured over with a sweet black-vinegar and ginger sauce, served only warm rather than hot, with every bone left in and no chilli whatsoever. A great many visitors and plenty of Chinese diners find it muddy-tasting, under-salted and tiresomely bony, and Louwailou's version is one of the most criticised dishes on the Chinese internet, routinely called touristy and overpriced. Locals who defend it are after something specific: a lake fish deliberately kept in clean running water and unfed for a day or two so the flesh firms up and the muddiness drops away, under a sauce whose sweet-sour balance is supposed to read as delicate rather than sharp. Louwailou has publicly moved to cleaner-water fish and a gentler poaching method to cut the earthiness, which helps but does not settle the argument. If you want the best chance of liking it, order it at Ru Yuan (如院), where the kitchen rebuilds the dish with real precision, or at Zhiweiguan Weizhuang; if you only want to say you tried it, order one here and share it. Everything else on the table is sweeter than a foreign palate expects, particularly the pork, and nothing is spicy.

Allergens in this kitchen

fishshellfishsoygluten/wheatsesame

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.

Get to know the menu

Local specialities to try here