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Discover Hangzhou

Yue Fei Temple and Tomb

岳王庙 / 岳飞墓

The shrine and burial mound of Yue Fei, the Song general executed for resisting the Jurchen invasion and still a national symbol of loyalty. Kneeling iron statues of the officials who betrayed him stand outside the tomb.

¥25≈ US$3.721 hour
Yue Fei Temple and Tomb (岳王庙 / 岳飞墓), Hangzhou
Photo: 钉钉 · CC BY-SA 4.0

The story

What makes this place special

Yue Fei was the Southern Song general who fought the Jurchen Jin and was executed by his own court in 1142, a casualty of the peace faction around the chancellor Qin Hui. He was rehabilitated posthumously, the temple over his grave was first built in 1221, and he has been the standard Chinese emblem of loyalty betrayed ever since. The complex was made a national monument in 1961, was badly damaged by Red Guards in 1966 and restored in 1979. The screen wall carries the four characters jin zhong bao guo, 'serve the country with utter loyalty', the motto he is said to have had tattooed on his back.

What you’ll discover

Two linked parts on the north-west shore of West Lake: the temple hall, with a large seated statue of Yue Fei under the loyalty motto, and behind it the burial ground, where his tomb mound and that of his son Yue Yun sit behind a short spirit way with twelfth-century stone figures. In front of the tombs kneel four iron statues of the men blamed for his death, Qin Hui and his wife among them, placed there to be spat on - this is why you will see Chinese visitors glaring at them, and why the railings around them exist. There is also a separate Temple of Loyalty and a gallery of steles and rubbings.

A little local insight

Good to know before you go

  • Understand the kneeling figures before you reach them. For Chinese visitors this is the emotional centre of the site and the only sight on West Lake with a political charge; walking past them without knowing who they are is to miss the whole visit.
  • Chinese schoolchildren come here in large groups on weekday mornings in term time. Mid-afternoon is calmer.
  • It is right beside the lakeside path between the Su Causeway and Gushan, so it slots into a north-shore walk without a detour - and it is one of the few ticketed things on that stretch.
  • The stele gallery with the rubbings of Yue Fei's own calligraphy is at the back and is routinely skipped.
  • The Quyuan lotus garden is immediately next door at the north end of the Su Causeway, which makes the obvious pairing in July and August.

When to come

Late afternoon on a weekday, after the school parties. Any season; it is largely shaded courtyard and works in summer.

Getting around

Good. The complex is flat and at lake level, with paved courtyards and only shallow steps up into the main hall, and the tomb enclosure is reached on level paving. A wheelchair can see the hall, the kneeling statues and the tombs. The lakeside approach is flat promenade and the shoreline shuttle bus stops nearby.

Worth knowing before you go

Read up on Yue Fei first - without the story the site is just halls and a mound. It sits on the walking route between Quyuan Garden and Beishan Road's old villas, so slot it in between.

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