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A taste of Suzhou

Xin Ju Feng Cai Guan (Taijianlane)

新聚丰菜馆

A Suzhou name since 1904, with this upstairs branch in a busy shopping lane off the old centre trading for more than twenty years. It is the kind of place where the seasonal specialities actually arrive on time: crab roe sautéed fresh each morning in autumn, river fish in wine lees the rest of the year. Two short service windows a day and no pretension at all.

¥¥¥ on the MICHELIN price scale (upper-middle band); exact per-head price unconfirmedMichelin Selected 2026Gusu district, 2F, 9 Taijianlane, in the Guanqian Street shopping area.
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Xin Ju Feng Cai Guan (Taijianlane) (新聚丰菜馆), Suzhou
Photo: Shwangtianyuan · CC BY-SA 4.0

Why come here

A place worth making time for

MICHELIN Selected in the MICHELIN Guide Shanghai | Jiangsu | Zhejiang 2026 (listed, without a star or Bib Gourmand). Known locally as a 1904 Suzhou house that still cooks the full seasonal calendar

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Sautéed crabmeat and roe, made fresh daily (炒蟹粉)
  • Chinese sleeper fillet in wine-lees sauce (糟汁塘鳢鱼)
  • Squirrel mandarin fish if you want the classic in a working restaurant (松鼠鳜鱼)

What it actually tastes like

Markedly sweet, and the wine-lees dishes carry a boozy, fermented tang. Crab roe is rich and faintly bitter in a way that divides people. Freshwater fish here are small and bony.

Allergens in this kitchen

shellfishfishsoygluten/wheatsesameegg

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.