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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

A taste of Chongqing

Yuwei Xiaoyu Hot Pot (Pipashan Zhengjie original)

渝味晓宇火锅(枇杷山正街店)

A twenty-year-old neighbourhood hotpot on the ground floor of a residential block on Pipashan Zhengjie, made famous outside Chongqing by the television series A Bite of China. There is no decor to speak of - plastic stools, tiled walls, a lot of noise - and it sits next to the Rainbow Staircase, which means a steep climb or a taxi. This is the unreconstructed version of the city's dinner.

¥90–120 per person≈ US$13Yuzhong district, 86 Pipashan Zhengjie, beside the Rainbow Staircase. Metro station not confirmed; local advice is to take a taxi because of the slope.

Why come here

A place worth making time for

Featured on CCTV's A Bite of China season 2 and treated locally as a benchmark old-school beef-tallow house; no award confirmed from a primary source.

The house favourites

What to order

Point at the Chinese. Staff will understand it even where the menu has no English at all.

  • Beef tripe (毛肚)
  • Duck intestine (鸭肠)
  • Duck blood curd (鸭血)
  • Pork brain (脑花)

What it actually tastes like

The broth is fried from Shizhu chilli, Hanyuan 花椒, beef tallow, Pixian broad-bean paste and old ginger, and it is as oily, salty and numbing as Chongqing hotpot gets. Offal-forward menu, bone-in cuts, and brain (脑花) served soft in a gentle corner cell. Old-school houses like this usually run the red broth only - do not count on a 鸳鸯 split pot or a 清汤 clear broth, and ask before you sit down if someone in your party cannot eat chilli. One thing visitors hear about and worry over: the traditional 老油 practice of straining and reusing the tallow between tables, which gave the broth its depth. It is now regulated and licensed restaurants are required to use fresh single-use base oil (一次性锅底), which is what a shop like this will tell you it serves.

Allergens in this kitchen

sesamesoygluten/wheatpeanut

This is the kitchen, not one dish. Woks, fryers, blanching water and utensils are shared in almost every Chinese restaurant, so for a serious allergy treat the whole premises as the unit rather than ordering around it.