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A little preparation. A much better adventure.Independent travel advice · Made for China

Your destination guide 重庆

Chongqing

The vertical city, and the Three Gorges

A city built up a cliff where the metro runs through a tower block and the best things are free. Also the usual upstream start of the Yangtze cruise.

3–5 daysTime to explore
15 placesFind your favourites

Getting there

Jiangbei International (CKG) — metro Line 10 serves both terminals and is faster than Line 3. Chongqing North and Chongqing West both handle high-speed rail and are far apart, so check which your ticket names.

When to go

Mid-April to late May and late September to early November. Avoid July and August, when the city earns its 'furnace' nickname — and it is largely vertical.

How long: 3–5 days

Give it 3 days for the headline sights, or up to 5 to see it properly and eat your way around.

Three covers Hongyadong, the monorail and one proper hotpot. Five adds Ciqikou, the Dazu rock carvings and a Yangtze evening, with a second hotpot once you know what you are ordering.

Chongqing: the vertical city, and the Three Gorges cruise

A city built up a cliff where the metro runs through a tower block, and the usual upstream start of the Yangtze cruise. Most of the best of it is free.

Make a few good memories

What to see in Chongqing

Researched largely from Chinese-language sources, so it goes beyond the usual shortlist. Dollar figures are approximate, at the rate on 2026-10-08.

Hongyadong (洪崖洞), Chongqing
Youyiy33 · CC BY-SA 4.0

洪崖洞

An 11-storey stilt-house complex clinging to the cliff above the Jialing River, lit gold at night so that it looks like the bathhouse from Spirited Away. It is free, it is absurd, and it is the image most people now associate with Chongqing.

Tickets & prices

Free

1-1.5 hours

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

李子坝轻轨站

A metro line that runs straight through the sixth to eighth floors of a residential tower block, with the station built inside the building. It is a genuine piece of mountain-city engineering that became an internet phenomenon.

Tickets & prices

Free to watch; a normal metro fare if you ride through

30 minutes

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Yangtze River Cableway (长江索道), Chongqing
rheins · CC BY 3.0

长江索道

A 1970s commuter cable car that still swings across the Yangtze between the Yuzhong peninsula and the south bank, 1,166 metres in about five minutes. It gives the best mid-air view of the two-river confluence and the skyline.

Tickets & prices

¥30 one way, ¥50 return (locals' commuter fares differ)

≈ US$4.47–7.45
1 hour including the queuePassport

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Ciqikou Ancient Town (磁器口古镇), Chongqing
kmahyyg · CC BY-SA 4.0

磁器口古镇

A Ming-Qing porcelain port on the Jialing River, now a dense grid of stone lanes full of teahouses, chilli-heavy snack stalls and a 1,000-year-old temple. Crowded, but the only surviving old quarter of its kind in the city.

Tickets & prices

Free (some individual halls and museums charge)

2-3 hours

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Dazu Rock Carvings (大足石刻), Chongqing
JL Cogburn · CC BY-SA 2.0

大足石刻

A UNESCO World Heritage site of some 50,000 cliff-carved Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian figures from the 9th to 13th centuries. The Baodingshan horseshoe gorge, with its 31-metre reclining Buddha and the Wheel of Life, is among the finest sculpture anywhere in China.

Tickets & prices

Baodingshan ¥115 peak (1 Mar - 30 Nov), ¥100 off-peak; Beishan ¥70 peak, ¥50 off-peak; combined two-hill ticket ¥140 peak, ¥120 off-peak

≈ US$7.45–21
A full day from ChongqingPassport

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Jiefangbei (Liberation Monument) Square (解放碑), Chongqing
涔水影人 · CC BY 3.0

解放碑

A 1940s victory monument now dwarfed by a ring of glass towers and luxury malls - the clearest single image of what has happened to Chinese cities in forty years. The surrounding pedestrian streets are Chongqing's commercial heart.

Tickets & prices

Free

1 hour

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Chongqing China Three Gorges Museum (重庆中国三峡博物馆), Chongqing
Eng.Justus Byebirooha · CC BY-SA 3.0

重庆中国三峡博物馆

The city's main museum, built to record the Three Gorges valley before the dam flooded it, alongside galleries on Ba culture, the wartime capital and Chongqing's own history. The best context you can get before taking a river cruise.

Tickets & prices

Free

2-3 hoursClosed Monday (open on national public holidays)Passport

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Huguang Guild Hall (湖广会馆), Chongqing
Zhangzhugang · CC BY-SA 3.0

湖广会馆

The largest surviving migrant guild hall complex in China, built by settlers from Hubei and Hunan during the great Qing resettlement of Sichuan. Carved timber theatres and courtyards sit incongruously beneath the expressway on the riverbank.

Tickets & prices

Ticketed - current adult price not confirmed in available sources; under-6s and over-65s free, students and 60-65s half price

1-1.5 hours

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Eling Park (鹅岭公园), Chongqing
Chen Huang · CC BY 3.0

鹅岭公园

An 1890s private garden on the narrowest ridge of the Yuzhong peninsula, with the Kanshenglou tower looking down on both the Yangtze and the Jialing at once. It is the oldest park in the city and still mostly full of locals.

Tickets & prices

Free; ¥5 to climb the Kanshenglou tower

1.5 hours

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Shibati (Eighteen Steps) (十八梯), Chongqing
rheins · CC BY 3.0

十八梯

The old stepped lane that connected the upper and lower city, demolished and rebuilt as a heritage quarter of stilt houses, workshops and food streets descending the cliff. It is the reconstructed version of vanished Chongqing, done reasonably well.

Tickets & prices

Free

1.5 hours

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

南山一棵树观景台

The classic postcard viewpoint over Chongqing: a terrace on the south-bank mountain looking straight down on the Yuzhong peninsula wedged between its two rivers. At night the whole city is laid out below you.

Tickets & prices

¥30

≈ US$4.47
1-1.5 hours

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

白鹤梁水下博物馆

A 1,600-metre stone ridge in the Yangtze carrying 1,200 years of carved low-water marks - the world's oldest hydrological record - now sealed under a pressurised chamber 40 metres below the reservoir surface. You descend by escalator and view the inscriptions through portholes.

Tickets & prices

¥50

≈ US$7.45
2 hours at the museum, most of a day with travelClosed MondayPassport

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

武隆天生三桥

A UNESCO World Heritage karst landscape where three colossal natural rock bridges span a collapsed cave system, with the valley floor hundreds of metres below. Scenes from Transformers: Age of Extinction and Zhang Yimou's Curse of the Golden Flower were shot here.

Tickets & prices

About ¥125-155 adult depending on the package, including the shuttle bus and the lift; concession rates around ¥85-120

≈ US$13–19
A full day from Chongqing, better as an overnightPassport

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

长江三峡游轮

The multi-day boat trip downstream from Chongqing through the Qutang, Wu and Xiling gorges to Yichang, usually with side trips to the Shennong Stream and the Three Gorges Dam. It is the classic Yangtze journey and still the main reason many travellers come to Chongqing.

Tickets & prices

Varies enormously by vessel class, season and route - domestic and international-standard ships are priced very differently; get a current quote when booking

4 days / 3 nights downstreamPassport

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

Crown Escalator (Lianglukou Escalator) (皇冠大扶梯), Chongqing
Siyuwj · CC BY-SA 3.0

皇冠大扶梯

A single 112-metre escalator, 52 metres of vertical rise, built in 1996 to carry commuters between the railway station and the ridge above - once the longest in Asia. Two and a half minutes of pure mountain-city absurdity for the price of a bus ticket.

Tickets & prices

¥2

15 minutes

Opening hours, booking and how to get there →

What to eat in Chongqing

Chongqing eats chilli and Sichuan pepper harder than anywhere else in China, and the default fat is beef tallow (牛油). Assume any hotpot broth, noodle bowl or stir-fry contains beef tallow, pork lard, bone broth or chicken stock unless you have specifically asked. 'Mild' (微辣) in Chongqing is still hot by Western standards; ask for 微辣少麻 (little chilli, little numbing) and expect it to arrive medium-hot. Hotpot's clear-broth (清汤) or tomato (番茄) half of a split pot (鸳鸯锅) is the practical escape route, but it is usually still made with chicken or pork bone stock and sits in the same pot as the spicy side. Dipping sauce is normally sesame oil plus raw garlic, which is a sesame allergy issue; a dry-powder dip (干碟) is chilli, salt and crushed peanut, so peanut-allergic diners should ask for neither. Noodle shops open early and close mid-afternoon; hotpot is a late-night meal. Most small shops are cash-free, WeChat/Alipay only, and many now take orders by QR code at the table.

Allergens that turn up across Chongqing cooking: egg, fish, gluten/wheat, peanut, sesame, shellfish, soy. Recipes vary shop to shop, so treat every listing below as a starting point for a conversation rather than a clearance — and carry the dietary cards, which name the things that actually catch people out.

Chongqing hotpot

重庆火锅

Chóngqìng huǒguō

A cauldron of beef-tallow broth loaded with dried chillies and Sichuan pepper, often divided into nine compartments (九宫格) that cook at different speeds. You order raw ingredients by the plate and cook them yourself.

Tastes like: Intensely spicy, oily, salty and heavily numbing, with a deep fermented-bean savouriness underneath

very hotsesamesoygluten/wheatpeanutshellfishfish

Not on the menu but in it: Beef tallow is the base fat in virtually every authentic Chongqing broth, so the 'vegetable' plates are not vegetarian once dipped. Broths usually also contain pork bone or chicken stock, fermented broad-bean paste (soy/wheat), and sometimes rock sugar and Chinese rice wine. The standard dip is sesame oil with garlic; the dry dip contains crushed peanut. Not halal unless at a dedicated 清真 hotpot house.

Might not be for you: Offal is the point here, not an afterthought — tripe (毛肚), duck intestine (鸭肠), pork brain (脑花) and congealed duck blood (鸭血) are the signature orders. The numbing from Sichuan pepper can feel like an anaesthetic injection. Oil splatter, shouting and shared tables are normal.

Where: Jiefangbei and Jiaochangkou for the famous houses; any neighbourhood 老火锅 under a residential block for the real thing

Watch videos of Chongqing hotpot →

Chongqing small noodles

重庆小面

Chóngqìng xiǎomiàn

The city's breakfast: alkaline wheat noodles dressed with a dozen seasonings — chilli oil, Sichuan pepper, soy, preserved vegetable, garlic water, spring onion — served either in broth or 'dry' (干溜) with the sauce clinging to the noodles.

Tastes like: Hot, numbing, garlicky and savoury, with a slick of fragrant chilli oil

hotVeggie version sometimesgluten/wheatsoypeanutsesame

Not on the menu but in it: The broth is pork bone or chicken stock, and most shops add pork lard to the bowl for gloss. Crushed peanuts and peanut oil are common in the seasoning base. Preserved mustard tuber (榨菜) is usually vegetarian but is often fried in lard.

Might not be for you: The chilli-oil slick is thicker than most visitors expect, and the numbing hits the lips within seconds. Shops are plastic-stool, shared-table affairs.

Where to eat it

  • Huashi Wanza Mian · ¥14–20 per person · Yuzhong district, 77 Qingnian Road (there is also a Minsheng Road shop). Metro station not confirmed. Open roughly 07:00-20:00.
  • Qin Yun Lao Taipo Tantan Mian · ¥14–25 per person · Jiulongpo district, Yangjiaping area near Chongqing Zoo. Metro station not confirmed.

Where: Any shopfront noodle stall in a residential lane in Yuzhong or Jiangbei, before 10am

Watch videos of Chongqing small noodles →

Pea and minced pork noodles

豌杂面

wān zá miàn

Small noodles topped with stewed yellow split peas cooked to a mush and a spoonful of soy-braised minced pork. The most ordered variant of xiaomian.

Tastes like: Starchy and comforting under the chilli, with a salty meat gravy

hotgluten/wheatsoypeanutsesame

Not on the menu but in it: Pork mince is the topping, plus lard and bone broth. A 'pea only' bowl (豌豆面) still usually sits in meat stock.

Where to eat it

  • Huashi Wanza Mian · ¥14–20 per person · Yuzhong district, 77 Qingnian Road (there is also a Minsheng Road shop). Metro station not confirmed. Open roughly 07:00-20:00.
  • Qin Yun Lao Taipo Tantan Mian · ¥14–25 per person · Jiulongpo district, Yangjiaping area near Chongqing Zoo. Metro station not confirmed.

Where: Neighbourhood noodle shops; ask for 二两豌杂干溜 (two liang, dry style)

Watch videos of Pea and minced pork noodles →

Spicy chicken cubes

辣子鸡

làzǐ jī

Small bone-in chicken pieces deep-fried until crisp and then tossed through a mountain of dried chillies and Sichuan pepper. You hunt for the chicken among the chillies rather than eating the chillies.

Tastes like: Dry-fried, toasty, fragrant chilli heat; crunchy rather than saucy

very hotsoygluten/wheat

Not on the menu but in it: Fried in large volumes of oil that is frequently shared with meat dishes; marinade contains soy sauce and rice wine.

Might not be for you: Bone shards in almost every piece, and biting a dried chilli by accident is a real risk.

Where to eat it

  • Lin Zhong Le Laziji (Geleshan original) · ¥88–110 per person · Shapingba district, Geleshan (Oujiawan community no. 199 / Sanbaiti Huangjueshu area). No metro; take a taxi or ride-hail. Open roughly 10:00-22:00.

Where: Gele Mountain (歌乐山) is the dish's home turf; also any 江湖菜 restaurant

Watch videos of Spicy chicken cubes →

Sour and hot sweet potato noodles

酸辣粉

suān là fěn

Thick, slippery sweet-potato starch noodles in a broth sharpened with black vinegar and chilli oil, topped with crushed peanuts, preserved vegetable and coriander.

Tastes like: Sharply sour, hot, and savoury, with a bouncy, almost rubbery noodle

hotVeggie version sometimespeanutsoysesame

Not on the menu but in it: Bone or chicken stock is standard; peanuts are visible but peanut oil may also be in the chilli oil. Some versions add pork crackling.

Might not be for you: The noodle texture is gelatinous and slippery, and the sourness is much sharper than Western vinegar dressings.

Where to eat it

  • Hao You Lai Suan La Fen · ¥8–15 per person · Yuzhong district, Bayi Road Good Eats Street, a short walk from the Liberation Monument. Metro station not confirmed.

Where: Ciqikou old town and street stalls everywhere; it is a snack, not a meal

Watch videos of Sour and hot sweet potato noodles →

Street-side spicy skewers

冷锅串串 / 麻辣烫

lěngguō chuànchuàn / málà tàng

Skewered vegetables, meat, offal and tofu cooked in a spiced broth and either served in a bowl of that broth or eaten cold from a tub; you pay by the stick.

Tastes like: Spicy and numbing, with a lighter, soupier character than hotpot

hotsoysesamegluten/wheatfishshellfish

Not on the menu but in it: The broth is beef tallow or bone stock even for vegetable skewers, and all skewers cook in the same pot, so cross-contact with offal, seafood balls and pork is unavoidable.

Might not be for you: Shared communal broth; many skewers are processed fish or offal that is hard to identify.

Where: Jiujie (九街) late at night, or any evening street in Shapingba

Watch videos of Street-side spicy skewers →

Chongqing roast fish

万州烤鱼

Wànzhōu kǎoyú

A whole fish grilled, then set over a burner in a shallow tray of spiced oil with vegetables, tofu and herbs that you keep cooking at the table.

Tastes like: Smoky, spicy, savoury, with the oil picking up the fish flavour as it bubbles

hotfishsoygluten/wheatsesamepeanut

Not on the menu but in it: The sauce base typically contains fermented bean paste, oyster sauce or fish-flavour seasoning, and lard or beef tallow.

Might not be for you: The fish arrives whole with head and bones; freshwater fish here is full of fine pin bones.

Where: Riverside restaurants in Jiangbei and along the Yangtze; a group dish

Watch videos of Chongqing roast fish →

Steamed assortment, Chongqing style

格格 / 小笼蒸牛肉

gégé / xiǎolóng zhēng niúròu

Bite-size bamboo baskets of meat coated in spiced rice flour and steamed over sweet potato or pumpkin, ordered a few baskets at a time alongside noodles.

Tastes like: Soft, savoury and mildly spicy, with a fragrant toasted-rice aroma

mildsoy

Not on the menu but in it: The vegetable layer at the bottom absorbs meat juices; the rice powder coating is often seasoned with lard.

Might not be for you: Fatty and sometimes offal-based versions (intestine, tripe) sit in the same steamer stack.

Where: Breakfast and lunch noodle shops across Yuzhong

Watch videos of Steamed assortment, Chongqing style →

Griddle-cooked dishes

干锅

gānguō

A dry version of hotpot: ingredients such as chicken wings, ribs, shrimp or cauliflower stir-fried with chilli, then brought to the table on a small burner to keep sizzling.

Tastes like: Deeply savoury, oily and aromatic rather than soupy

hotsoygluten/wheatshellfishsesame

Not on the menu but in it: Cooked in beef tallow or lard; oyster sauce and fermented bean paste are standard. The cauliflower version is cooked with bacon by default.

Might not be for you: Bones left in most meat versions.

Where: 江湖菜 restaurants across the city

Watch videos of Griddle-cooked dishes →

Spicy chicken in chilled broth

口水鸡

kǒushuǐ jī

Poached chicken, cut through the bone, served cool under a dressing of chilli oil, Sichuan pepper, soy, sugar and sesame.

Tastes like: Cool, nutty, sweet-salty and numbing all at once

hotsesamepeanutsoygluten/wheat

Not on the menu but in it: Sesame paste and crushed peanut in the dressing; chicken poaching stock is often used in the sauce.

Might not be for you: Served bone-in and at room temperature, which surprises some visitors.

Where: Cold-dish counters at any Sichuan–Chongqing restaurant

Watch videos of Spicy chicken in chilled broth →

Ciqikou twist doughnut

陈麻花

chén máhuā

A plaited, deep-fried wheat dough stick sold in sweet, salty and chilli flavours; the signature souvenir snack of Ciqikou old town.

Tastes like: Hard, crunchy and either sugary or peppery-salty

mildVeggie version sometimesgluten/wheatsesameegg

Not on the menu but in it: Some batches use lard in the dough; the 'spicy' flavour uses Sichuan pepper powder.

Might not be for you: Extremely hard texture — a dental risk rather than a palate one.

Where: Ciqikou (磁器口) old town, Shapingba

Watch videos of Ciqikou twist doughnut →

Stewed pork belly with preserved greens

烧白

shāobái

Slices of pork belly steamed until collapsing over a bed of salty preserved mustard greens; a banquet and family-table staple rather than a street food.

Tastes like: Rich, sweet-salty and very fatty, with a deep preserved-vegetable funk

soygluten/wheat

Not on the menu but in it: Fermented red bean curd (腐乳) in the sweet version; caramel and rice wine.

Might not be for you: The fat layer is thick and soft, with a jelly-like mouthfeel some visitors dislike.

Where: Traditional 老字号 and banquet restaurants

Watch videos of Stewed pork belly with preserved greens →

Where to eat in Chongqing

Check these before you go out of your way. Restaurants close, move and drop off lists, and these were last checked 2026-10-08. The durable skill is finding current recommendations yourself:
  • Dianping (大众点评) — the real ratings. Chinese only, but photos, prices and a 4.5+ score survive translation. Its 必吃榜 "Must-Eat" list is the mainstream benchmark.
  • Black Pearl (黑珍珠) — China's own fine-dining guide, published annually by Meituan and taken more seriously domestically than Michelin.
  • Michelin covers only a few Chinese cities, so its absence means nothing outside them.
  • Xiaohongshu (小红书) — what is actually busy this month, rather than this year.

Pei Jie Lao Huoguo (Jiaochangkou flagship) 珮姐老火锅(较场口总店)

¥120–150 per person≈ US$18

The house most often credited locally as the ancestor of the nine-grid pot, with a lineage its own telling traces to a Republican-era tripe hotpot stall run by a woman known as Pei Jie near Jiaochangkou. It has since grown into a national brand with branches including one inside Chongqing Raffles City, but the Yuzhong flagship is the one to eat at. It is busy, touristed and photographed constantly, and it is still a genuinely good beef-tallow pot. Understand what the nine-grid is before you order: it is ONE shared broth under a cast-iron grid dividing the surface into nine cells, not nine different soups. The cells differ only by heat convection. The centre square (中心格) is the hottest and rolls constantly, and is for things that cook in seconds - tripe, duck intestine, kidney. The four edge cells (十字格) are medium and take meat and fish. The four corners (四角格) are the gentlest and are where you leave blood curd, tofu and potato to simmer slowly. Put potato in the centre or tripe in a corner and you ruin both.

Repeatedly named in Chongqing municipal 'locals' favourite' hotpot rankings; widely reported as a Dianping must-eat list regularYuzhong district, Jiaochangkou area. Metro station not confirmed.sesamesoygluten/wheatfishshellfishpeanut

Order: Fresh beef tripe (屠场鲜毛肚), Big-knife pork kidney slices (大刀腰片) and 3 more

What to order, booking and allergens →

Dongzi Old Hotpot (air-raid shelter hotpot) 洞子老火锅

¥100–130≈ US$15

Hotpot served inside a wartime air-raid tunnel — cool, loud and smoky, and a Chongqing experience as much as a meal.

local institutionYuzhong, near Jiefangbei / Jiaochangkou

What to order, booking and allergens →

Yuzong Old Stove Hotpot 渝宗老灶火锅

¥100–150≈ US$15

A long-running local chain known for a thick, old-style beef-tallow broth rather than a tourist-facing one.

local institutionJiangbei (Guanyinqiao) and other branches

What to order, booking and allergens →

Qinma Hotpot 秦妈火锅

¥90–140≈ US$13

One of the oldest large Chongqing hotpot brands, consistently named in municipal locals' rankings and easy to find across the city.

Named in Chongqing Commerce Bureau 'locals' favourite hotpot' top-ten rankingsMultiple, including Yuzhong and Jiangbei

What to order, booking and allergens →

Jiaqi Hotpot 佳奇火锅

¥80–120≈ US$12

A neighbourhood hotpot tucked under a residential block, favoured by taxi drivers and locals for a heavy beef-tallow pot.

Named in Chongqing municipal 'locals' favourite hotpot' rankings two years runningResidential Chongqing (check current address before going)

What to order, booking and allergens →

Shibati Yanjing Noodles 十八梯眼镜面

¥10–20≈ US$1.49

A famous hole-in-the-wall xiaomian counter near the Shibati steps, the classic stop for a dry-style pea-and-pork bowl.

local institutionYuzhong, Jiefang West Road near Shibati

What to order, booking and allergens →

Wenxinyuan Noodle House 温馨缘面庄

¥10–20≈ US$1.49

A long-standing Yubei noodle shop regularly cited by locals as one of the city's best xiaomian bowls.

local institutionYubei, Songshi Branch Road

What to order, booking and allergens →

Zhou Shixiong Hot Pot (Jiefangbei flagship) 周师兄大刀腰片火锅(解放碑直营店)

¥78–110 per person≈ US$12

A modern Chongqing chain built on one dish: pork kidney cut into broad 'big-knife' slices, dipped in the pot for seconds and eaten crunchy. The Jiefangbei flagship is the easiest serious hotpot for a visitor to reach, sitting in the Sunshine Constellation building on Minsheng Road a short walk from the Liberation Monument. It is slick and well staffed rather than grungy and old-school, which makes it a sensible first hotpot. Learn the technique here: tripe, duck intestine and kidney go in the boiling centre cell held in your chopsticks for seven to fifteen seconds only - the local instruction is 七上八下, 'seven up, eight down', meaning you lift and dip about fifteen times and then eat it. Leave it in and it turns to rubber.

Yuzhong district, 9 Minsheng Road, Jiaochangkou. Chongqing Rail Transit lines 1 and 2, Jiaochangkou station (较场口), exit 6B, per Chinese guide listings.sesamesoygluten/wheatfishpeanut

Order: Big-knife pork kidney (大刀腰片), Hand-stripped fresh duck intestine (生抠鲜鸭肠) and 3 more

What to order, booking and allergens →

Yuwei Xiaoyu Hot Pot (Pipashan Zhengjie original) 渝味晓宇火锅(枇杷山正街店)

¥90–120 per person≈ US$13

A twenty-year-old neighbourhood hotpot on the ground floor of a residential block on Pipashan Zhengjie, made famous outside Chongqing by the television series A Bite of China. There is no decor to speak of - plastic stools, tiled walls, a lot of noise - and it sits next to the Rainbow Staircase, which means a steep climb or a taxi. This is the unreconstructed version of the city's dinner.

Yuzhong district, 86 Pipashan Zhengjie, beside the Rainbow Staircase. Metro station not confirmed; local advice is to take a taxi because of the slope.sesamesoygluten/wheatpeanut

Order: Beef tripe (毛肚), Duck intestine (鸭肠) and 2 more

What to order, booking and allergens →

Shancheng Budao Lao Huoguo 山城步道老火锅

¥66 per person≈ US$9.83

A cheap, unpretentious old-style hotpot in Nanping on the south bank, listed in China Southern Airlines' own Chongqing eating guide as one of the city's representative pots. Red oil to the brim and a mound of dried chilli on top, at a price locals actually pay rather than a tourist-strip price. Useful if you want the real thing without a Jiefangbei queue.

Nanping, Nan'an district, 3 Jinshan Road (annex 10). Metro station not confirmed. Open roughly 09:00-00:00.sesamesoygluten/wheatpeanut

Order: Beef tripe (毛肚), Duck intestine (鸭肠) and 2 more

What to order, booking and allergens →

Huashi Wanza Mian 花市豌杂面

¥14–20 per person≈ US$2.09

A tiny, scruffy noodle counter in Yuzhong that is one of the standard answers to 'where do I eat Chongqing xiaomian'. It hangs a sign claiming a place in the city's top five noodle shops, and it earns it with yellow alkaline noodles under stewed yellow peas and minced-pork sauce. Breakfast here is a seven-in-the-morning affair; by mid-afternoon the good stuff is gone.

Yuzhong district, 77 Qingnian Road (there is also a Minsheng Road shop). Metro station not confirmed. Open roughly 07:00-20:00.gluten/wheatsoysesamepeanut

Order: Two-liang dry-tossed pea and pork-sauce noodles (二两干溜豌杂面), Chongqing xiaomian in soup (重庆小面) and 1 more

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Qin Yun Lao Taipo Tantan Mian 秦云老太婆摊摊面(全国总店)

¥14–25 per person≈ US$2.09

The original shop of a xiaomian name that has since spread across China, run out of Jiulongpo. 'Tantan mian' means stall noodles - the trade used to be done from a shoulder pole and a street burner, and the shop keeps that register: stand, slurp, leave. It is the other half of the Chongqing breakfast argument alongside Huashi.

Jiulongpo district, Yangjiaping area near Chongqing Zoo. Metro station not confirmed.gluten/wheatsoysesamepeanut

Order: Chongqing xiaomian, two liang (重庆小面 二两), Pea and pork-sauce noodles (豌杂面) and 1 more

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Hao You Lai Suan La Fen 好又来酸辣粉

¥8–15 per person≈ US$1.19

A hole in the wall on Bayi Road's 'Good Eats Street' that sells one thing - hot and sour sweet-potato noodles - and sells it all day to a permanent queue. There is no dining room and essentially nowhere to sit; you take the bowl and eat it standing on the street. For under fifteen yuan it is the most efficient introduction to Chongqing snacking there is.

Yuzhong district, Bayi Road Good Eats Street, a short walk from the Liberation Monument. Metro station not confirmed.peanutsoygluten/wheatsesame

Order: Hot and sour sweet-potato noodles (酸辣粉), Hot and sour noodles with minced pork sauce (肉酱酸辣粉)

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Duo Yi Jia Guzhen Ji Za 多一家古镇鸡杂

¥35–50 per person≈ US$5.21

A cheap, loud dry-pot specialist on the main street of Ciqikou old town, serving 鸡杂 - chicken gizzard, heart and intestine stir-fried hard with pickled chilli, pickled radish and garlic shoots. It is the best thing to eat in a quarter otherwise given over to souvenir snacks, and it is a good demonstration of 江湖菜, the blunt, chilli-heavy river-and-road cooking Chongqing invented.

Shapingba district, 65 Ciqikou Zhengjie (annex 1), Ciqikou old town. Metro station not confirmed. Open roughly 10:00-22:00.soygluten/wheatsesame

Order: Old-town chicken offal dry pot (古镇鸡杂), Chicken offal with pickled radish (泡萝卜鸡杂) and 1 more

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Lin Zhong Le Laziji (Geleshan original) 林中乐辣子鸡(歌乐山总店)

¥88–110 per person≈ US$13

Up on Geleshan mountain in Shapingba, on the road where 歌乐山辣子鸡 was invented in the 1980s and which is now lined with competitors. Lin Zhong Le is the house usually named as the origin. A whole chicken is chopped small, bones in, deep-fried and then tossed with more dried chilli than chicken; you hunt the meat out of the pile. It is a half-hour taxi from the centre and worth the trip for one of the defining 江湖菜 dishes.

Shapingba district, Geleshan (Oujiawan community no. 199 / Sanbaiti Huangjueshu area). No metro; take a taxi or ride-hail. Open roughly 10:00-22:00.soygluten/wheatsesamepeanut

Order: Geleshan chilli chicken (歌乐山辣子鸡), Stir-fried seasonal mountain greens (时令小菜) and 1 more

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Robin's Grill and Teppanyaki 罗宾斯扒房铁板烧

¥350–700 per person≈ US$52

The grill-and-teppanyaki room on the second floor of the Regent Chongqing in Jiangbei, under chef Roy Pan - a wine cellar, a chef's table, copper screens depicting the city's docks and staircases, and a tomahawk wheeled out and carved at the table. It is the city's most-cited fine-dining address and the obvious choice on a night when nobody can face another beef-tallow pot. Western food, not Chongqing food.

Jiangbei district, 2F Regent Chongqing, 66 Jinshamen Road. Metro station not confirmed. Lunch 11:30-14:30, dinner 17:30-21:30.dairyegggluten/wheatshellfishfishsoytree nuts

Order: Tomahawk steak (战斧牛排), Beef Wellington (惠灵顿牛排) and 2 more

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Lao Tongxue Waiguan Hot Pot (air-raid shelter hotpot) 老同学歪馆火锅

Price not confirmed

A 洞子火锅 'cave hotpot' - a restaurant dug into one of the wartime air-raid shelters that honeycomb Chongqing, in the Yanyu Road underpass near the Jiangnan Sports Centre. The city built 282 public and over 1,500 private shelters against Japanese bombing in the late 1930s and early 1940s; the abandoned tunnels turned out to be cheap, and naturally ten degrees cooler than the street, which is why they became hotpot halls. This one was the main location for the 2016 film Chongqing Hot Pot.

Nan'an district, Yanyu Road underpass near Jiangnan Sports Centre. Metro station not confirmed.sesamesoygluten/wheatpeanut

Order: Beef tripe (毛肚), Duck intestine (鸭肠) and 2 more

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